The material very much does feel like hard plastic in most aspects, where it differs immensely is on thin parts such as the barrels. Bendability, how well does it hold its shape?ĭoes it feel like hard plastic but better?.Does paint chip less without varnish than on metal? (Warlord’s promise).Can you paint it without priming? (Warlord’s promise).Does it hold detail better than metal? (Warlord’s Promise).Is it easy to work with? (Warlord’s Promise).Does it feel like hard plastic but better?(Warlord’s promise).The criteria I will test the models under will be the following: So I am eager to discover if this new resin proves to be really a feasible alternative to metal models. More often than not it is difficult to work with and I find it generally unpleasant outside of a few very positive exceptions. I would also like to preface this review by saying I am not the biggest fan of resin. Specifically, I will test Warlord Games’s promises as well as the miniatures bendability and general painting experience. I know this guide was oddly specific and cherry picked for some, but what can you do? This is an annoying issue to deal with but doable nonetheless.These four sets are a glimpse into a potential future of resin miniatures for Bolt Action, but how do they hold up? I managed to snag the Italian Army weapon teams and intend to put them to the test. If your scope is a single piece design and the reticle is etched on the glass, the best thing you can do is rotate the scope till the reticle is straight to your eyes and then tighten it again. Keep in mind this is applicable for scopes that don’t have reticle etched on to the glass itself and eyepiece can be removed. Once again, don’t be hasty and take it slow. Now slowly start tightening the eyepiece and the body together. The final step is to reassemble the scope. You may need to leave it overnight for the process to finish. Take it slow and let it dry for some time. Step 4ĭon’t immediately tighten the eyepiece and the body right after the process. This will make sure it doesn’t rotate again. This will strengthen the bond between the brass ring and the body of the scope. ![]() Now, a very small amount of glue needs to be dropped on the edge of the brass ring. As you can see the toothpick is a bit sharp, don’t be too hard in the process and be very slow on the process. In this step, you can use the toothpick as your guide. Very gently and slowly rotate the reticle until it’s leveled properly and seems straight. If your scope reticle isn’t etched on the glass, then you will find a little brass ring on the body piece of the scope that has the reticle in it. Step 2Īfter you removed the eyepiece, you will now need to rotate the reticle. It will be hard to remove but it’s possible. You will find that the eyepiece is screwed in on the body of the scope. ![]() The first thing you need to do is find the split near the eyepiece. But if your scope is inexpensive and doesn’t have any warranty then you can attempt this method. If your scope has a good warranty, I urge you to avail of it. While this is an easy fix, I wouldn’t recommend doing it on an expensive scope or a scope that already has a replacement warranty. Just the glue needs to be strong and permanent. Well if you don’t then go out and get some. I’m sure that you have some toothpick lying in your kitchen. While you will do things mostly by your hands, there are some tools necessary for the deed.Ī toothpick. ![]() But if you want to get your hands dirty and fix your canted crosshair, here is a simple guide on how to do it. Rotating crosshair is one burning issue that has no prevention.įor some it’s fixable and for most, it’s not worth doing. They cost quite a bit of money and they are a pain to install properly and troubleshoot.
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